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The C's : Clarity

Part of the romance of a natural diamond is that it came from completely unique rough crystal, unlike any other. Nearly all diamonds have totally unique, natural characteristics that formed over millions of years; these are called inclusions. While most are microscopic and need magnification to detect, others may be visible with the naked eye.

Clarity grades are assigned by examining the finished diamond face-up at 10X magnification in neutral lighting. The following explanations apply when diamonds are strictly graded:

Common Grading Standards

Some of the world’s major labs are softer on clarity than others. Diamonds in most chain stores, malls and discount outlets may have more obvious inclusions for their grade than diamonds sent to the stricter labs. This can give casual shoppers a false and negative first impression about certain clarity grades.

AGS and GIA Clarity Standards

Two of the world’s strictest labs are the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and American Gem Society (AGS). These labs employ strict and consistent standards. Diamonds with AGS and GIA reports command a higher premium and hold their value better than diamonds from other labs. No two diamonds are alike, but when AGS and GIA standards are applied it is commonplace for diamonds SI1 and higher to have no visible inclusions face-up to the average vision in normal lighting.

EGL Clarity Standards

The European Gemological Laboratory (EGL) is known for introducing grading techniques for diamonds weighing less than one carat and for establishing the “SI3” rating for diamond clarity. While their grading standards are known to be slightly more lenient that the AGS and GIA, an EGL certified diamond will usually compare equal in quality to a GIA certified diamond that is graded one color grade and one clarity grade lower. These diamonds often times cost less than diamonds graded by the other two labs.

Tip: The best way to determine which diamond is right for you (in terms of clarity) is to compare diamonds with different clarity ratings that have been graded in different labs side by side. Our diamond specialists at Continental Diamond would be happy to help you with this demonstration.

Cut Influences Clarity Appearance

Since the goal of most cutters is to maximize carat weight from a piece of rough, the “lay” of inclusions is often secondary to producing the greatest possible yield. However, when the cutter’s priority is cut quality he can plan the “lay” of a grade-setting inclusion to reduce its face-up visibility. It may be impossible to omit primary characteristics (and the resulting clarity grade) but a skilled cutter can orient the rough so that they become transparent or less visible. This is particularly true for the SI2 and I1 clarity grades.

Better Cut = Cleaner Low Clarities

Diamonds planned for the best “lay” of inclusions are surprisingly clean. A crystal inclusion seen in one orientation may become invisible with a slight design adjustment. Super ideal cut diamonds also have superior brightness and scintillation, even when removed from jewelry store lighting, and this helps to mask inclusions.

Only a fraction of the world’s diamonds are planned in this manner; they are rare enough that most people have never even seen one. When buyers are considering diamonds planned for ideal performance we urge them to dismiss preconceived notions about lower clarities.

Interesting Fact: When selling ideal cut diamonds we must discourage conventional thinking - about the I1 clarity in particular - because well-planned diamonds break conventional barriers. In hundreds of live viewings buyers are shocked when they choose a “favorite” diamond that is graded below their previously imagined clarity threshold.